Botswana and South Africa: A Tale of Two Countries

Back from a trip to Botswana and South Africa, with a quick step into Zimbabwe (clearly struggling…) and Zambia to see the Victoria Falls. Lucky to be able to do this.

But with an eye to local politics, it was the opposing trajectories of two very different countries, Botswana and South Africa, which caught my attention, second (obviously!) to the amazing scenery and wildlife.

Starting from almost opposite ends of the spectrum economically, Botswana has, and is, going places with key benefits for southern Africa’s wildlife. More of which below. South Africa, from a hugely higher economic base, is not.

Botswana has developed some of the most innovative policies for conservation and tourism anywhere in the world, with huge benefits for its future success.

In broad terms, learning from the mistakes of other southern African countries, it has introduced ‘medium density, high value’ tourism policies that recognise the value and quality of its wilderness. Therefore, large areas of Botswana’s land is under some form of conservation. 40% of its land is conserved in its natural state whilst 17% of its land is officially under National Park, game reserve or other forms of conservation management.

The private sector plays a major role in helping the country, albeit under the strict eye of the government. Under detailed regulations, vast 15-year land concessions are sold to responsible businesses running safaris. The density and quality of lodges is ruthlessly monitored. Poaching is obviously illegal but hunting of an extended list of protected wild animals by locals is now prohibited and the practices of villages and their relationship with the land is being dramatically changed.

But there is a quid pro quo. The game reserves provide untold local employment opportunities. Schools and clinics are being built in even the remotest villages and land is given by the government for new incomers to build houses. From being one of the poorest African countries on the granting of independence in 1966, it is now becoming one of the most prosperous (also helped by diamond mining, again strictly regulated). It has its problems and no doubt corruption, but Botswana is largely one of Africa’s success stories.

The winner, besides people, is the wildlife. Threatened species from elephants, giraffes, lions, hippos, leopards and cheetahs, to name but a few, can find a relatively safe haven in Botswana and are growing in numbers. Protecting rhinos is still a problem (when will China get its relationship with animals right…). I was particularly struck by the concept of animals such as elephants coming over the border from the chaos of places like Zimbabwe, because they have remembered and learnt to find where the safe havens are. Amazing.

Now to South Africa. A very special country but in danger of giving up much of its economic and geographical advantages in the face of relentless corruption. Speaking to several local workers from a variety of backgrounds, few are optimistic about the future, feeling government incompetence and the growing gap between rich and poor is not sustainable. Most damningly, on the Robben Island tour one of the guides, a former inmate, was asked could he forgive. His reply was yes to his captors but no to what is happening to his country today.

The ANC is riddled with corrupt practices yet entirely dominant as the opposition implodes in infighting. The common refrain is that Zuma has set the country back nine years with his policies of state capture. Claiming ill health, he is currently holed up in Cuba and may not return to face justice. There is a State Capture enquiry going on and the detailed allegations are too lengthy and gruesome to cover here.

Cyril Ramaphosa, the current president, is struggling to exert control. There are rolling power cuts, train services are deteriorating (last Thursday the national power company, Eskom, cut the power to Cape Town’s entire Metrorail system for non payment of bills…!), the national airline is in receivership, water resources are poorly managed and the townships continue to grow as people from the East head for the Western Cape in search of work. Yet unemployment is c30% with youth unemployment over 50%. Crime is rife; one of my taxi drivers carried a knife on him…naturally…

There is a window of opportunity to put things right but it is narrowing rapidly. It should not be like this.

So, two countries heading in opposite directions. Africa is a dynamic and vibrant continent clearly on the rise. It would progress so much faster without the shackles of corruption. Leaders and governments who manifestly put the advancement of their country at the forefront of their actions, rather than gain for themselves and their allies, deserve to be recognised and applauded both at home and internationally. That legacy is worth a fortune and they need to know the effort is worth it.